Commentary:
Wiltrud Schwetje:
On the topic of Adlib
Honestly, I have never experienced an Adlib show where there wasn’t
something to complain about, whether for good reason, or simply
because you can’t please all of the people all of the time.
On top of everything, each year a new organiser gets to twiddle
around with it, meaning experience is missing in dealing with
the event.
One problem cannot be solved, even with better organisation, and
that is the question of the identity of Moda Adlib. There is certainly
room for opinions. Some will say Moda Adlib should be focused
on its roots, be made of natural materials. Adlib products may
only be produced on Ibiza and should thus help keep old techniques
alive.
Others will say that what has passed is past. Traditional Adlib
fashion is boring, new ideas are needed. Everyone should participate.
It makes no difference what materials the designer uses or where
she or he produces it.
If one follows the second line of thinking, another problem immediately
comes to the fore. The number of Adlib designers will climb so
fast that the show won’t last two hours, but much longer.
I find that two hours is the absolute maximum of what is bearable.
I think that Adlib should remain Adlib, after all, it does have
thirty years of tradition to fall back upon.
There should be a meeting of all the designers enabling them to
be able to pool their rich years of experience and to collate
ideas. One thing must be said here, in the last two to three years
there have been designers who presented pieces and collections
that are not in the typical Adlib style. Before, that didn’t
really bother anyone, as the circle of designers was so small.
Now that the Island Council is trying to commercialise the brand
and are drawing in more and more designers, I feel it is about
time that Adlib be defined more precisely.
My criteria would clearly be:
. Moda Adlib must be made of natural materials;
. Moda Adlib must be produced on Ibiza,
not in developing countries where even child labour is sometimes
tolerated;
. Those working within Moda Adlib who use
old techniques (weaving, needlepoint, knitting materials) should
get preferential treatment.
Those who cannot fulfil these criteria aren’t necessarily
bad designers, they just don’t relate to the traditional
philosophy of Adlib. Why not organise a second evening where everything
that doesn’t fit the Adlib criteria can be presented? However,
there should be a different name chosen for this line.
The quality of the fabrics and sewing work should, whether it’s
Adlib or not, be proofed by a professional jury beforehand. Those
who copy should not be allowed to participate. The same applies
for designers who present something that has long been on the
market.
And one last thing. It seems to me to be a sorry excuse when the
organisers every year explain afterwards that there just simply
wasn’t enough time to address the issue at hand. Correct
me if I’m wrong, but there is always a year between each
Adlib fashion show, isn’t there …
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